Man! Time has a way of creepin' and flyin' by all at the same time...
I celebrated my one year anniversary in California (last week) by surfing, surfing, surfing!
A funny thing happened, though, I couldn't catch a wave to save my life for almost 4 days. It seemed the ocean had a little message for me: remember what a challenging year it was. Phew! What an adventure! I wouldn't change a single thing, though. Not a one.
Things are flowing here now, in my second year. I'm safely tucked into my beachside bungalow. Dungee no longer is confined to a camper, but can scamper all around my backyard. I've got fresh oranges at my fingertips, birds tweeting overhead and surfboards stacked in every spare corner.
If you would've told me when I lived in Brooklyn that in just a little over a year I would be able to walk down to Swami's and surf (and I could ACTUALLY SURF) I would've said "Shut your mouth!" But, it's true. And boy, am I blessed and boy, do I know it.
I have found a way to sustain my meager little existence. I write for the following websites:
www.fivesprockets.com and www.dailystoke.com
If you would've told me I'd be a writer for a surf website I would've said "NO WAY!" But, yes way. I am. Wonders never cease. I am paid to write about my passions, making movies and shows and surfing.
I also do office work/administrative tasks and video editing for a great guy who donates part of his funds to a village in Nepal. Pretty rad.
I was hired as a ghost writer on a really REALLY amazing book concept!
I am getting LOTS of interest in the cooking show!
I have had the pleasure of hosting Dan, Danielle, Scott, Patrick; and this week, my parents and my friend Doug's dog, Boomer in my bungalow. It's a little tight in here when people visit, but nothing a spare futon mattress doesn't cure.
It's been lovely to share my bungalow with everyone, show them how to pick oranges and squeeze 'em for breakfast, take them on bike rides down the coast and on early morning Zen walks at Swami's...
So, after a year of living here, I have found peace. Peace, happiness, and a bit of stability and a lot of hope. My life, as it currently is, is full. I have people I love, a dog I love, a place I love, jobs I love and plenty of super cruisy waves out my front door.
Last week on my one year anniversary of learning how to surf, I paddled out with Jorma for a Swami's sunset session, and I looked at the beautiful world around me. The cliffs, the metallic shimmery water, the board I hauled from New Jersey, my epic surf mentor rippin' it up and I drank in all the memories of the past year. I sat there and cried out of sheer appreciation of the journey and of even greater appreciation of the present.
If we could all just do that more often. Just take a step back and look at what you have, and really feel how great it is to have simple things in your life, and see how beautiful things like health, friends, family, jobs, passions and hope are. Man, do we all have it made.
So, while last year was "The Adventures of Picking Up, Moving and Following Your Dreams"
This year, I am affectionately calling "Everybody Loves a Comeback Kid"
These are the things that I think when I am surfing...and then, inevitably, I do the one thing I know I have to do...
I turn around and paddle for the next wave coming at me.
