I don't know how long I'll keep chalking up time in weeks since I got here, but for now I'll keep with the week system and this is my interpretation of Week 5.
Bull Taco (our empire on the sea) has been in a sort of holding pattern until we get the official go-ahead for our sprinkler system from the fire chief/people/person/approval guy. So, in the meantime, I've been working with Jorma on the branding, style and design. We do this thing called a "rad contest" where we sit next to each other on our computers, show each other what we think is cool and then we send it off to Greg and he either writes us back or calls us saying "That is so rad." Ahhh business in California is juuuust my style.
Finding ourselves with a June Gloom day of clouds and sprinkly rain, Jorma and I headed to the thrift store and wal-mart, created stencils and started spray painting our first official Bull Taco gear. Turns out the guy can do more than surf, go figure. We're workin' on this apocalyptic and anarchist image and spend our days laughing at Scarface boxer shorts, 3D tanks and grenades in a taco and researching whether or not people order salsa as their last meal before they get executed. We think we're on to something.
The surf has been all over the MAP this week. I had days I couldn't go out, days I went by myself and days I paddled out with Jorma, or Jorma and Greg. The day I went by myself I totally spooked myself out. I crashed, I got tossed and I smashed my leg as I went barreling over myself in a close-out session. I dragged my board out of the ocean and was pretty freaked out about it. I took a day off to recover and then decided a nice 5 mile run would do me good the next day. But yesterday, the sun was out, the waves were bitchin' and Jorma, Greg and I headed out to 85's. The swarm was crowding us out so we moved down to Turtles where I proceeded to catch the raddest and most epic wave of my life. First, when I pulled up into it I noticed that Jorma was riding it with me, which rocked. Next, I noticed that I was TURNING! TURNING! WOAH! and the other thing? Well, I don't really want to talk about exactly what I felt on that wave, but holy sh*t, I did something so amazing and cool and it felt like I was coming home. I mean, man. I was so damn happy after that wave. It was almost 4 years ago I started dreaming I could surf and yesterday I got a little glimpse of the dream coming to life. This is what I moved here for.
With extra time on my hands I spent a lot of time chillin in my backyard, laughing in my bedroom and peeking out the back of a truck sleepin' on a street near the beach. I am totally addicted to truck camping. I love it.
This week I also got my first taste of homesickness and loneliness. I kept realizing just how many people I loved are so very far away. I got through it with some fish n' chips at Capt'n Keno's with Amberbock and plenty of laughs with Jorma. I also did my first official ladies' night out, which is so very important to the soul (not to mention I got some good tips on a good wax).
I went to a street festival, saw some reggae, witnessed my first sting ray injury, packaged our first Bull Taco Salsa, saw low tide in the morning and came upon some beautiful dewy flowers...
Life is beginning to settle in here and I no longer look at the palm trees like they are aliens. I can't wait for summer to kick into full gear and I am looking forward to some great friends visiting next week. It will be nice to see some faces from the past.
Oh, yeah, and Dungee got a wee bit addicted to Coors Light. I know it's kinda red neck to take video of your dog drinking beer, but seriously, she was loving life.
This is week 5 in California. Enjoy and welcome to the Rad Contest.
2 comments:
There is a place where the sidewalk ends
And before the street begins,
And there the grass grows soft and white,
And there the sun burns crimson bright,
And there the moonbird rests from his flight
To cool in the peppermint wind.
Let us leave this place where the smoke blows black
And the dark street winds and bends.
Past the pits where the asphalt flowers grow
We shall walk with a walk that is measured and slow,
And watch where tehe chalk-white arrows go
To the place where the sidewalk ends.
Yes we'll walk with a walk that is measured and slow,
And we'll go where the chalk-white arrows go,
FOr the children, they walk, and the children, they know
The place where the sidewalk ends
Hi Amanda! I just wanted to say I miss you and molly misses dungee...
It sounds so fun over there...can I come work for you?
xoxoxooxox
Post a Comment