I've been here a week.
I have so many updates. So many great things that have happened. It's not that amazing things aren't happening and I have nothing to post... it's that I truly wanted to be able to experience these things and just see what California felt like, ya know and let in sink in a little bit?
First, I am so proud of the time I lived in New York. So many times this week I have been called upon to use my New Yorker expertise. Whether it be to parallel park, negotiate a production or move a 400 lb buddha, being someone who lived in New York sure makes things happen snappy!
This week was filled with so many amazing milestones. I worked my first shifts at my new job. I found a place to live with an amazing roommate and housemates. I surfed my first waves as a local. I went to the grocery store. I went to my first party. I cooked. I napped in a hammock.
And now, my surfing updates!!! I have a local break! I have a place to keep my board next to the beach! I change on a bluff overlooking the beautiful breaking ocean! I have unlimited board access! I can surf once, twice or as many times a day as I wish!
I learned the "egg beater"
I GOT UP!
I got up FOUR TIMES!
I got up and RODE THE WAVE THE WHOLE WAY IN!
I got up, rode the wave and KINDA TURNED A LITTLE BIT!
Needless to say I am in endless bliss. I have made MAJOR milestones surfing in the beautiful sparkling ocean. I didn't cry the first time I saw the ocean last week with Dungee. But I will fully admit that when I rode my first real wave in yesterday and jumped off my board near shore, I cried then. I cried because I was looking back at the big beautiful ocean sparkling in the late afternoon sun and I was able to grab my board, jump back on and paddle back out to try for another one. And you know what? I can do this every day. Every single day that I want.
And that, my friends, deserves a big fat tear of pure happiness.
Life is good from Southern Cali and I'm headed to sleep exhausted, sunkissed, sore, cut up from the reef and so very , very happy.
1 comments:
Phew! I'm so glad you're having a blast out there. I was worried when you didn't write for a few days, but having too much fun to blog is a good excuse. I'll definitely accept that one. Thanks for throwing a little sunshine into my cubicle this morning.
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